La Kalsa (Italy)

In Arabic, the name Khalisa means "pure", although that is about the last word we'd use to describe this colorful district. Left over from the Middle Ages, the crumbling Quartiere della Kalsa is the medieval core of Old Palermo and its most intriguing neighborhood in spite of all the decay, wartime destruction, and poverty. It is rapidly being restored. Located in the southwestern section of the old city, La Kalsa was designed and constructed by Arab rulers as a walled city for the emir and his ministers. Already in serious decline before World War II, La Kalsa was heavily bombed in 1943 by Allied bombers seeking to conquer Sicily from Fascist control (the neighborhood was on the bombers' radar for its strategic location near the city's port). In the postwar era, La Kalsa sank into deeper misery and squalor. When the Albanian nun Mother Teresa visited La Kalsa, she lectured the well-heeled Palermitani, telling them that since Palermo was as poor as a third-world country, "charity should begin at home". Today, after endless delays, Mother Teresa's words are finally being heard, and La Kalsa is slowly getting the restorative attention it deserves. La Kalsa is bounded by the port of La Cala on one side and Via Garibaldi and Via Paternostro to the east and west, and by Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Lincoln to the north and south. One of its main thoroughfares is Via Butero. A good place in the heart of the quarter to begin your rambling is the fancifully baroque church of Santa Teresa alla Kalsa (tel. 091-6171658), which opens onto the center square, Piazza della Kalsa. The church was constructed between 1686 and 1706. Two orders of Corinthian columns grace its stately facade. If it's open, visit the luminous interior to see the impressive stuccoes of Giuseppe and Procopio Serpotta. To reach Piazza della Kalsa, enter near La Cala, the harbor, through Porta dei Greci, right off the busy thoroughfare, Foro Italico. Arm yourself with a good, detailed map before venturing into the quarter. From Piazza della Kalsa, walk north along Via Torremuzza until you come to Via Alloro, La Kalsa's main street in the Middle Ages. Head west along this street for a close encounter with the decaying district. The elegant palaces of yesteryear have been destroyed, torn down, or burned down, some are still standing, albeit most likely in a serious state of decay. One of the grandest extant palaces along Via Alloro is the Palazzo Abatellis, home today to the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia. After passing Palazzo Abatellis, you will shortly come to Via della Vetriera. At this point, head south for another close encounter with La Kalsa. This street will lead you to Chiesa di Santa Maria dello Spasimo, Via dello Spasimo (tel. 091-6161486). A melancholy aura hangs over this church, originally constructed in the late Gothic style in 1506. This is the only example of the Northern Gothic style on the island. The walls went up, as did a soaring apse, but the builders abandoned the project and it was never roofed. Naturally, its interior was never finished either. Two towering ailanthus trees adopted it and now grow tall and proud. The church ruins make a marvelous venue for performances in summer. For a final look at La Kalsa, bid adieu to Santa Maria dello Spasimo and head west across Piazza della Spasimo. This will lead into the Piazza Magione. From here, you can enjoy the facade of La Magione or the Chiesa della Santa Trinità (tel. 091-6170596), an excellent example of a Norman church constructed in 1191 by the Cistercians. In 1197, Holy Roman Emperor Henry VI awarded it to the Teutonic Knights, who remained in control until 12, when Pope Innocent VIII kicked them out of Italy. The knights are gone, but their marble funereal slabs can still be seen on the floor of the church's austere interior. The beautiful cloisters date from the founding of the original Cistercian monastery, they were severely damaged when the 1943 Allied air raids bombed the church.